Tag Archives: Ted Simon

That empty desk at AA Auto

In July, I’m at our local auto mechanic in Falls Church, getting the annual state safety inspection for Linda’s red Vespa, a mandatory review after which you get a dated sticker.

I’m talking with one of the guys there, a fellow by the name of Butch. He did some nice bodywork on Linda’s father’s Oldsmobile a while back and we see each other there often.

We always say hello and have brief conversations. You could say we have a passing acquaintance.

On this day in July, Butch tells me he used to ride a Triumph when he was younger and talks about some of the roads he traveled. For some reason, I didn’t know he used to ride motorcycles; I can’t recall him bringing it up before.

He gave up riding after marriage and when Washington, D.C., traffic started getting insane. He talks about riding in the rain, the dark, and later, the traffic.

It’s a good conversation.

In August, I stop by (sans motorcycle or Vespa) and give Butch a copy of “Jupiter’s Travels” by Ted Simon, who wrote a book about his journey around the world on a 500cc Triumph 1001 starting in 1973.

I tell Butch it’s a pretty good book about motorcycle travel2 and that he may enjoy it. He asks if I want it back and I say, no, it’s his, and I hand it to him and leave.

In October, I take Terra Nova3 to the shop because she also needs a safety sticker inspection4 and I figure I’ll ask Butch if he liked the book.5

I park Terra Nova in the garage and notice Butch’s desk is neatened up and think to myself, “wow, he’s done a lot of cleaning there.”

Zach, a really good guy who runs the shop, sees me looking at the desk and says, “Hey, Butch passed away this weekend.”

I’m floored. “What? What happened?” 

Zach doesn’t know. Butch was found at his home; they think the cause was heart-related. No obituary yet.

The copy of “Jupiter’s Travels,” with the orange 3×5 card on which I’d written For Butch still snug between its middle pages6, is on the second shelf of the unit behind his desk. He hadn’t taken it home.

I riffle through the book, carefully put it back, and take Butch’s last business card from the cardholder on his desk. There’s a cloth draped over his computer screen, like a mirror covered during the mourning period of shiva.

Even though I did not know him very well, Butch’s death eats at me – the abruptness, the finality, the brutally unfair loss of a good man – and I stop back at the shop a day later to ask Zach if I can take a photo of Butch’s desk. It’s a useless, insignificant gesture, of course, but I want to remember. A tribute of sorts, maybe.

Zach says, sure, go ahead, adding that family members had taken the rest of his stuff the day before, so there isn’t much there.

Everything’s been removed, naturally, including the shiva cloth over the computer screen. The book is gone. I take the photo anyway7.

***

1 – Ted Simon’s Triumph is on display at the Coventry Transport Museum in England.

2 – It really is the gold standard for motorcycle travel books. Another good one is “Vroom With a View” by Peter Moore.

3 – My 2012 Yamaha Super Tenere, named for Robert Falcon Scott’s ship of the 1910 British Antarctic Expedition.

4 – That was after Coleman Powersports fixed the mistakes I made with the battery and got Terra Nova running again. The orange sticker goes on a small plate bolted to the left front fork.

5 – Though it may prove irritating or exhausting to recipients at times, I give books to people I like, choosing stories I think they may enjoy. I’m careful to let them know there’s no obligation to like the books, or even read them.

6 – I’d stuck the card between the pages just in case he wasn’t there that day, counting on him to find it later.

7 – The photo that’s posted above.

Reading & Riding

One or two for the ride.
One or two for the ride.

“Books. I don’t know of any other cyclist who takes books with him. They take a lot of space but I have three of them here anyway, with some loose sheets of paper in them for writing.”
– Robert Pirsig, “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance”

Oh, I do.

I always take a book or two on motorcycle rides. It’s true, they take up space, and they’re heavy as heck.

Linda and I do a great deal of reading at work; among other things, she edits, researches, rewrites and clarifies news stories to make them infinitely better and I do research for graphics and other projects. Much of this is on deadline and under the gun.

Riding motorcycles is a getaway from work and deadlines. Reading for pleasure helps us attain escape velocity. With exceptions for the Weather Channel, we try to stay away from the TV.

Vintage Kerouac novel...
Vintage Kerouac novel…

I was jarred into this realization during an impromptu layover one night years ago at a lonely, run-down motel in Adelanto, Calif. I was on U.S. 395 going home to Reno from San Diego, got tired, and decided to call it a day with 200 miles down and 400 to go.

The room TV had absolutely nothing worthwhile and I plundered the saddlebags on Discovery, my ’94 Yamaha 750 Virago, to see what I had.

Besides a repair manual, I had one book and it was perfect: an old Signet paperback of On the Road by Jack Kerouac, given to me by my good friend Van just before I moved from Ohio to Nevada. I didn’t even remember stowing it aboard the bike. I read it again that night and started packing books on every long-distance ride.

...with some of Van's original artwork.
…with some of Van’s original artwork.

I still do that to this day. I pick the titles carefully, tending toward lighter fare. There’s no pattern I can discern; the choices are as scattergun as an outhouse squirrel.

You won’t find The Brothers Karamazov or In Search of Lost Time or Les Miserables in Terra Nova’s sidecases. I prefer substantial meals on the bike, not seven-course dinners.

But the authors who accompany me are pretty good, I think.

Some of them include Mark “Tiger” Edmonds, who writes about motorcycles and is a great storyteller; anything by Ted Simon, author of Jupiter’s Travels, the premier tale of motorcycling around the world; Edmund Morris, whose The Rise of Theodore Roosevelt I literally could not put down; and Michael Korda’s Hero: The Life and Legend of Lawrence of Arabia was fascinating and illuminating.

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance comes along for a ride every once in while, too.

Mark "Tiger" Edwards.
Mark “Tiger” Edmonds.

I used to carry tales of motorcycle adventure, an effort to bolster the documentation of my own travels. That’s faded away in favor of other books.

My écrivain du jour is Alain de Botton. I discovered The Art of Travel, which fit my own perceptions of life on the road, especially the pauses at gas stations and greasy restaurants.

But I found de Botton fascinating. How Proust Can Change Your Life was unexpectedly funny and illuminating about the life and work of venerated French writer Marcel Proust and how even a schmuck like me could benefit from knowing him.

Alain de Botton.
Alain de Botton.

His other books, on architecture, work, and philosophy, are equally good. So de Botton has earned his place in my sidecases.

Just a couple of books, on every ride, nestled among tools, a quart of oil, tire pump, battery charger, and other essentials for the road. While the latter items keep you going, the books stay in the confines of your helmet and offer something to think about while you’re getting there.